Radiant Heat & Wood Flooring: Part 2

A strange phenomenon occurring in radiant heat floors is color change directly over the tubes, typically happening with oily woods (often exotics). Over time, the difference in heat exposure directly over the tubes, compared to the rest of the floor, causes a color change in the warmer areas, usually darker, and reveals the exact pattern of the tubes. This is damage to your flooring that cannot be sanded out of the floor.

Before the wood flooring arrives at your job site, the radiant heat system must be running. How long depends on the moisture conditions necessary to bring the wood flooring inside. Some say 2 weeks, others say 30 days minimum. Turning the system on will ensure it is functioning properly, there are no leaks, and it is driving moisture out. If it is not turned on, and the subfloor sufficiently dried before the wood flooring is installed, it is a virtual certainty that when winter arrives, and the system is turned on for the first time, the wood flooring will cup and buckle as the moisture is driven out of the subfloor and into the wood flooring.

Once the flooring has been installed and it is time to apply the finish, it is important that prior to the finishing, the radiant heat is turned off long enough to allow time for the floor surface to reach a normal temperature, usually a minimum of 6 hours. If not, the entire floor will act like one big “hot spot”, similar to any spot where sunlight is directly hitting the floor. This will cause the finish to dry too fast, leaving applicator marks and causing bubbles. Once the finish is dry, the radiant heat can be turned back on.

Lastly, what happens after the installation is just as important as before and during. The environment must be maintained at optimal levels. Stabilizing humidity is the key. Whether that means adding moisture in winter or drier months or dehumidifying in summer or warmer months – this is critical to the success of the floor. Speak with you contractor to understand what the optimal environment is for your floor. Understand that even with humidity controls, it’s natural for wood floors to shrink and swell. It is also important that after being turned off for the season, the radiant heat is gradually turned back on. By its nature, radiant heat warms up slowly and it will be hard to resist the urge to turn it up higher and faster. This will cause a drastic temperature change for the floors and potentially irreversible damage. There are safeguards available to ensure this does not happen. Outdoor thermostats automatically and gradually turn radiant heat up or down in response to outdoor temperature changes. You should be educated by you contractor or installer as to how the heat works and why it shouldn’t be turned up too much at once. Finally, controls can be included in the system that prevent anyone from turning up the system too much at any one time.

For more helpful information on hardwood flooring options, or to buy the right flooring for your radiant system, please visit www.GateWoodFloors.com.

Hardwood Flooring 101

You will find an overwhelming number of websites with information and how-to’s. Using our experience as professional hardwood flooring installers, and as homeowners, we’ve answered some of the general questions you have about hardwood flooring and where to start. To get you started, here is an introduction to some great basic information and how-to-choose guides:

Species:
Let’s start with Hardwood Species. What’s popular? Which one should I use? The answers to these questions lies strictly within you. Your taste, your style, your color preference, your purpose, the look you want – you, you, you!

Which species is harder? For the answers to questions like these, check out the Hardwood Species Guide at GateWoodFloors.com!

Types & Grades:
On the list of things to consider when purchasing hardwood flooring is “What type of flooring do you need or prefer?” Solid 3/4” thick hardwood flooring is what most people think of when someone says “hardwood floors.” But there are more options today than ever before. The area in which you are installing the new hardwood flooring will dictate what type of flooring you will be able to use. “On” or “Above Grade” is any room at ground level and up. “Below Grade” is any room below ground level. Your choices are Solid, Engineered, or Laminate. Solid hardwood flooring is available in both Unfinished and Prefinished and can only be installed “On” or “Above Grade.” Engineered wood flooring also comes in Unfinished or Prefinished but can be used at any level - “On,” “Above” or “Below Grade.” Laminate flooring is only available in Prefinished, and can also be used at any level. Moisture varies at each level, and should be taken into consideration when deciding what type of flooring to install. For more detailed information, check out the Products Guide at GateWoodFloors.com!

Time to Calculate:
You’ll need to calculate how much flooring is required before you make your purchase. We can show you how in 4 easy steps!

Doing It Yourself?
You will first need to determine your method for installation. Depending on the type of flooring you’re installing can choose “Nail Down,” “Glue Down,” or “Floating” installation. Read our Do-It-Yourself Guide for much much more!

Care & Maintenance:
After your flooring is installed, you probably have questions about how to care for it, especially in different seasons. What about pets? We’ve answered some of your most frequently asked questions right here!

Upon first glance, it seems as if installing a new hardwood floor is a monumental task. At GateWood Floors, we keep it simple. Visit our extensive Buyer’s Guide. In just a few minutes you will get all the info you need to get a hardwood floor that gives you a lifetime of pleasure.